Short version: we make gemstone jewellery with any gemstone in any design in Argentium silver, made to order at our workshop in Jaipur, the city known as the coloured gemstone capital of the world. We work with over 100 natural coloured stones, cut to calibrated sizes or free-form, in every shape. Argentium is a bright white silver that shows a stone’s true colour, needs no plating, and rarely needs the harsh cleaning that can harm delicate gems.
Design your gemstone piece
Tell us the stone, shape, size and piece, or send a photo of what you have in mind. We source the stone in Jaipur and make it in Argentium silver, delivered worldwide.
Which gemstones look best in silver?
Cool and vivid colours look best in silver: blue sapphire, tanzanite, aquamarine, blue topaz, emerald, amethyst and green tourmaline. White metal makes blues brighter and greens cleaner. Warm stones such as ruby, citrine and garnet look striking in silver too, with a sharper, more modern contrast than in gold.
The silver itself matters as much as the stone. A bright white silver with no plating, such as Argentium 960, shows the stone’s colour truly and keeps looking the same for years.
Jaipur and gemstones
Jaipur was founded in 1727 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, and for most of the three centuries since it has drawn gem cutters, setters and traders from across India. Today it is known as the coloured gemstone capital of the world: emeralds, rubies, sapphires, tanzanite, tourmaline and dozens of other stones are cut, polished and set here, and sold on to jewellers on every continent.
India as a whole cuts and polishes over 90 per cent of the world’s diamonds by volume. Jaipur is where the coloured stones go. Being based here means we choose stones face to face, match them by colour for a pair or a line, and have them cut to the exact size your design needs.
Why Argentium silver suits gemstones
It shows true colour. Argentium 960 is 96 per cent silver, a bright white metal with no yellow or grey cast. A sapphire looks like a sapphire, and an emerald keeps its green, with nothing in the metal shifting the colour.
Nothing plated to wear off. Most silver gem jewellery is rhodium plated to look white. The plating wears first around the prongs and under the stone, right where the eye goes. Argentium needs no plating, so the colour of the metal around the stone stays the same for years.
It protects delicate stones. Ordinary sterling tarnishes, and cleaning it often means silver dips and polishing compounds. Those are hard on porous or treated stones such as opal, turquoise, pearl, lapis and oiled emeralds. Argentium resists tarnish, so it needs a soft cloth far more often than a chemical clean.
Settings that grip. Argentium can be hardened, so prongs and bezels hold their shape. We harden before setting rather than after, because some stones should never be heated.
Gem by gem
Hardness is on the Mohs scale, where diamond is 10. Above 7, a stone copes with daily wear in a ring. Below 7, it suits pendants and earrings, or a ring with a protective bezel.
| Stone | Colour | Hardness | Best for | Setting we suggest |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ruby | Red | 9 | Rings, studs, statement pieces | Prong or bezel |
| Sapphire | Blue, also pink, yellow, white | 9 | Everyday rings, engagement rings | Prong or bezel |
| Emerald | Green | 7.5 to 8 | Pendants, earrings, rings worn with care | Bezel or protective prongs |
| Aquamarine | Sea blue | 7.5 to 8 | Pendants, rings, cocktail pieces | Prong |
| Topaz | Blue, white, golden | 8 | Rings and pendants | Prong |
| Tourmaline | Pink, green, bi-colour | 7 to 7.5 | Pendants, rings, earrings | Prong or bezel |
| Amethyst | Purple | 7 | Rings, pendants, beads | Prong |
| Citrine | Golden yellow | 7 | Rings, pendants | Prong |
| Garnet | Deep red, also green | 6.5 to 7.5 | Rings, earrings, vintage styles | Prong or bezel |
| Peridot | Lime green | 6.5 to 7 | Earrings, pendants | Bezel for rings |
| Tanzanite | Violet blue | 6 to 6.5 | Pendants, earrings | Bezel or protective prongs |
| Moonstone | White with blue sheen | 6 to 6.5 | Cabochon pendants, earrings | Bezel |
| Opal | Play of colour | 5.5 to 6.5 | Pendants, earrings | Full bezel |
| Turquoise | Sky blue to green | 5 to 6 | Cabochons, beads, statement silver | Bezel |
| Lapis lazuli | Deep blue with gold flecks | 5 to 5.5 | Beads, cabochons, signet tops | Bezel or inlay |
| Onyx and agate | Black, banded colours | 6.5 to 7 | Signet rings, beads, men's pieces | Bezel or inlay |
For diamonds, we set both natural and lab-grown stones, and moissanite for maximum sparkle. See our guides to moissanite and lab-grown diamond rings and tennis bracelets.
The most popular stones, in silver
Emerald in silver
Emerald’s green looks cleanest against white metal. Most emeralds are oiled to improve clarity, so we set them in a bezel or protective prongs and avoid heat and ultrasonic cleaning. Jaipur is one of the world’s main emerald cutting centres.
Ruby in silver
At 9 on the Mohs scale, ruby is hard enough for any ring. In silver, its red looks sharper and more modern than in gold, which suits signets, solitaires and stud earrings.
Sapphire in silver
Blue sapphire is the classic silver stone: equally hard as ruby, and its blue deepens next to white metal. It also comes in pink, yellow and white for a softer look.
Tanzanite in silver
Tanzanite’s violet blue is made for silver. It is softer, around 6 to 6.5, so it suits pendants and earrings, or a ring in a protective setting.
Amethyst and citrine in silver
Both are quartz, at 7 on the Mohs scale, hard enough for everyday rings and generous in size for the price. Amethyst’s purple and citrine’s gold both work beautifully in silver.
Turquoise and lapis in silver
The traditional partners of silver. Both are soft and porous, so we set them in bezels, and Argentium’s tarnish resistance spares them the silver dips that would dull them.
Birthstones
Birthstone jewellery is one of the most popular gifts in coloured stones. The modern list:
| Month | Birthstone |
|---|---|
| January | Garnet |
| February | Amethyst |
| March | Aquamarine |
| April | Diamond |
| May | Emerald |
| June | Pearl or moonstone |
| July | Ruby |
| August | Peridot |
| September | Sapphire |
| October | Opal or tourmaline |
| November | Topaz or citrine |
| December | Turquoise or tanzanite |
A birthstone set in Argentium makes a gift that stays bright in the box, which matters when it waits weeks for a birthday. For astrological stones, see astrological gemstone rings in Argentium silver.
Shapes and settings
Shapes we cut and set: round, oval, cushion, emerald, radiant, pear, marquise, heart, trillion, princess, baguette, rose cut, cabochon, beads and free-form.
Settings: four or six-prong solitaires, half and full bezels, halos, three-stone, channel lines, pavé, cluster, inlay for onyx and lapis, and bead strings with silver clasps. Hard stones show off best in prongs, which let in the most light. Softer stones are safest in a bezel, which wraps metal around the edge.
Watch real pieces from our workshop
Your stone, your design
Tell us the stone, the shape, the size and the piece, or send a sketch, a photo or a CAD file. We source the stone in Jaipur, match colours for pairs and lines, draw the design in CAD for you to approve, and make it in Argentium silver.
You can also send us your own stones and we will set them. For brands, we produce gemstone lines under your label, from 100 g of silver across the order.
- Send the brief on WhatsApp: stone, shape, size, piece and quantity.
- We send stone options and a price, with the silver weight and carat weight written out.
- You approve the design and, for anything custom, a sample.
- We make, set and finish it in Jaipur, stamped with the Winged Unicorn.
- We deliver it worldwide, insured and tracked.
Ordering from abroad? The import duty calculator shows the landed cost in your country.
Caring for gemstones in silver
- Wipe with a soft cloth. Argentium rarely needs more, which is better for every stone.
- Avoid silver dips and ultrasonic cleaners for opal, turquoise, pearl, lapis, emerald and tanzanite.
- Take rings off for the gym and housework, especially those set with stones softer than 7.
- Store pieces apart, since harder stones scratch softer ones.
Frequently asked questions
Which gemstones look best in silver?
Cool and vivid stones look best in silver: blue sapphire, tanzanite, aquamarine, blue topaz, emerald, amethyst and green tourmaline. Warm stones such as ruby, citrine and garnet also look striking, with a sharper, more modern contrast than in gold.
Is emerald good in a silver ring?
Yes. Emerald's green looks clean against white silver. Because most emeralds are oiled, a bezel or protective prongs and gentle cleaning are best, which Argentium makes easier since it rarely needs polishing.
Does tanzanite look good in silver?
Yes. Tanzanite's violet blue is especially vivid in white metal. It is softer than sapphire, so it suits pendants and earrings, or a ring with a protective setting.
Which gemstone is the most durable for a silver ring?
Ruby and sapphire, at 9 on the Mohs scale, are the most durable coloured stones for everyday rings. Topaz, aquamarine and emerald follow, though emerald needs a protective setting.
Can you make jewellery with any gemstone?
Yes. We work with over 100 natural coloured gemstones, cut to calibrated sizes or free-form, in every shape, and we also set natural diamonds, lab-grown diamonds and moissanite. You can send your own stones too.
Why is Jaipur known for gemstones?
Jaipur has been a centre for cutting, polishing and trading coloured gemstones for centuries and is known as the coloured gemstone capital of the world. Emeralds, rubies, sapphires, tanzanite and tourmaline are among the stones cut there.
Is silver good for gemstone jewellery?
Argentium silver is a strong choice. It is a bright white metal that shows a stone's true colour, needs no rhodium plating, and resists tarnish, so it rarely needs the harsh cleaning that can damage delicate stones.
Which gemstones are best for everyday rings?
Stones of 7 or above on the Mohs scale, such as ruby, sapphire, emerald with a protective setting, aquamarine, topaz, tourmaline, amethyst and citrine. Softer stones like opal and turquoise suit pendants and earrings, or a ring with a full bezel.
Can I order birthstone jewellery?
Yes. We make birthstone rings, pendants and earrings for every month, in any design, set in Argentium silver.
Do you make gemstone jewellery for brands?
Yes. We produce gemstone lines under your label, with stones matched by colour across the run, from 100 g of silver across the order.
Can you set stones I supply?
Yes. Send us your stones and we will design around them and set them in Argentium silver.
Do you deliver outside India?
Yes, worldwide, insured and tracked.
Design your gemstone piece
Tell us the stone, shape, size and piece. We will send stone options and a price with the silver and carat weight written out.
Sources
- IBEF and GJEPC: India's gems and jewellery industry
- Jaipur: the gemstone capital of the world
- Cynthia Eid, Working with Argentium Silver, via Rio Grande
General information. Weights and prices depend on the finished piece.